Izingubo Alexander McQueen zibonisa ubuntu boMdali wakhe - i-Eccentric ne-Brilliant Alexander McQueen.
Ngemuva kokushiya okungazelelwe kwempilo yomqambi, uhlobo lomkhiqizo luyaqhubeka nokugcina i-stylist yakhe, luthokozisa ngezingubo ezingenhla kanye nezithombe ezinesibindi.
Mayelana nomkhiqizo
U-Alexander McQueen uluhlobo lwengxenye yokunethezeka enobuthi, eyasungulwa ngu-London Designer Alexander Macquin. Le yindlu yemfashini evelele kakhulu futhi ehlambalazayo eNgilandi.
Umsunguli womkhiqizo ubuntu obuhlukile, umklami wemfashini onethalente onikezwe amahlandla amathathu ngesihloko esithi "Umqambi waseBrithani wonyaka" ngo-1997, ngo-1998 no-2002.
Omunye wabambalwa obuzimisele kahle futhi wathatha izitayela zemfashini ekuqaleni kwamakhulu amabili eminyaka. Ezandleni Zakhe, ngisho nemibala ethokozisayo kakhulu yaphila, baqala 'ukudlala futhi bacule', amandla emviloki.
Emaqoqweni akwa-Alexander, amaphikisi aphelele ahlanganiswe ngokuvumelanayo, kwakuyisici esimangalisayo esenza uhlobo lwakhe luhluke kakhulu.
IMacquain ngokwayo ichazwa ngokuthi "umklami onethalente futhi oshaqisayo, umdwebi we-eccentric owadala izithombe ezinhle ezingekho kuhlaka lweConservatism."
I-biography yomqambi ayihluke kakhulu komunye ophila ngesikhathi sakhe. Njengoba ayephuma emkhayeni ompofu waseLondon, akazange acabange ukuthi angathola impumelelo enjalo, futhi uhlobo lwakhe luzothandwa emhlabeni wonke.
- U-Lee McQueen wazalwa ngoMashi 17, 1969 eLondon. Wayethanda imfashini kusukela ebuntwaneni, ukudweba imidwebo yezingubo zabesifazane, kepha umndeni wawumelene nezinto azithandayo.
- Ngo-1985, waphonsa isikole futhi washiya indlu yabazali, ebeka ukusebenza e-Atelier "Anderson & Malusi". Kamuva wamenyelwa endimeni yesikrini sezingubo eziseshashalazini, lapho athunga khona izingubo ezinhle kakhulu.
- Ngo-1989, waba ngumsizi kumqambi wemfashini waseJapan uKoji Tatsuno futhi wangena eCentral College of St Martins.
- Ngo-1992 wathola iziqu ze-master nge-design ekhethekile. Ukuqoshwa kweziqu ze-Master kwaheha ukunakwa komphakathi, kepha kwawenziwa umbono okhethekile ku-stylist Isabella blou, owathenga zonke izingubo eziqediwe. Kamuva, waba nethonya elikhulu ekuthuthukiseni umklami omncane, wameluleka ukuba aguqule igama lakhe ku-Alexander, futhi wayithatha umnyuziyayela wakhe.
- Ngo-1994, umklami wemfashini wabhalisela umkhiqizo wakhe u-Alexander McQueen.
- Ngo-1996, waba ngumqondisi we-turenchy, eseshintshe uJohn Galliano eposini lakhe, wasebenza kulokhu okuthunyelwe kuze kube ngu-2001.
- Ngo-1997, umkhiqizo u-Alexander McQueen uthuthele ekukhathazekeni kweqembu leGucci.
- Ngo-2001, uhlobo lukaGucci lwaba ngumnikazi wamasheya we-McKain. Ngasikhathi sinye, u-Alexander wahlukana noMidnchy, futhi wagxila ngokuphelele kuhlobo lwakhe, ethole inkululeko ephelele yokudala. Kuleli phuzu kuqhubeke, umlando wempumelelo ka-Alexander McQueen waqala.
- Ngo-2003, kwethulwa umugqa wokuqala wecebo lombuso, eminyakeni emine kamuva kwavela i-Beed Version yakhe.
- Ngo-Okthoba 29, 2003, wanikezwa umyalo woMbuso waseBrithani ezandleni zika-Elizabeth II esigodini se-Buckingham.
- Ngo-2005, ukubambisana kwaqala ngenkampani yezemidlalo uPuma, umklami wakhipha iqoqo lezicathulo.
- Ngo-2006, kwakhiwa umugqa wentando yeningi wentando yeningi weDemocratic MCQ, owagcina esekuqala ukubekwa njenge-MCQ yentsha ehlukile ngu-MCQ ngu-Alexander McQueen.
- Ngo-2007, uhlobo lwe-Samsoni olukhishwe amasudi afana nebele lomuntu owakha icebo lawo ahlanganyela e-Alexander.
- Ngo-2009, ama-Mcquin adale izingubo zokudlala "eonagata", ezazinikelwe kuFrenchman we-Frevalé d'Eon.
- NgoFebhuwari 11, 2010 watholakala walengiswa ekhaya lakhe eLondon. Izizathu zokuthi umklami wazibulala ngokungaziwa ngokuthembekile. Ukufa kwakhe okungazelelwe kwathinteka kubantu abaningi futhi kwaxoxwa ngenkuthalo ngesonto eliseduze lemfashini.
Ngemuva kwenyanga, okuthunyelwe komqondisi we-brand we-brand kwathathwa umsizi kaMcCain - uSarah Burton, osekulesi sikhundla kuze kube manje.
Amaqoqo wezingubo
Ngempilo yakhe, i-Alexand McQueen ikwazile ukukhipha amaqoqo angama-35 wezingubo ukusuka ngo-1992 kuya ku-2010. Ngamunye ufanele ukushiwo okuhlukile, kepha sizojwayelana nokuthakazelisa kakhulu futhi okuvusa inkanuko.
- Iqoqo le-St Martins MA elithweswe iziqu, uJack The Ripper ukhipha izicucu zezisulu zakhe (uJack Ripper wethula izisulu »), 1992
Ukuqoqwa kweziqu komklami, onikelwe eJack kuya kwi-Ripper. Ngeshwa, azikho izithombe ezivela kulo mbukiso we-debut, futhi umnikazi weqoqo waba ngu-Isabella Bloou, esasikhuluma ngenhla.
Noma kunjalo, izinto eziningana ezivela kuleyo qoqo azizange zibambe iqhaza kumbukiso u-Alexander MQueen: Ubuhle be-Savage, obebanjelwe eNew York Metropolitan Museum.
Phakathi kwemibukiso - ingubo kasilika enephethini yocingo evinjelwe, ehlotshiswe ngezinwele zomuntu. Lokhu kubhekiselwa kwabesifazane bokuziphatha okulula kwenkathi yeVictorian. Bathengisa izinwele zabo, zenza ngazo ama-wigs ngama-curls.
Ekuqaleni, ama-curls akho, agcwele ezikhwameni zepulasitiki, anamathiselwe kuzo zonke izingubo zomklami.
- I-Highland Rape ("Ukudlwengula iScotland"), ekwindla / ubusika 1995
Igama elivusa inkanuko lathola iqoqo elinikezelwe ekungqubukeni kweScotland naseNgilandi. Amamodeli aqhubeka ne-podium, ekhombisa ukudabuka esisekelweni se-hysteria, futhi ngangithemba ukuthi kwakukhona izingubo ezihloliwe ezinama-cutout.
Ngemuva kwalokho, ukuqonda kahle iqoqo, abagxeki basolwa u-Alexander onzondo kwabesifazane.
- Indlala ("indlala"), intwasahlobo / ihlobo 1996
Ukuqoqwa kwahlasela ubuhle bama-vampires ngisho nangaphambi kokuba babe runtream. Maphakathi nawo-90s, umklami wasebenzisa izikhwama ezifana nezikhwama ezinegazi, ama-asymmetrical silk blouse amnyama namabhulukwe anamabhulukwe okhalweni.
Ezinye iziketi zazihlotshiswe ngezimpondo zenyamazane, nezingcezu zikaRog zaphenduka zaba yizinzwa zokungena ngemvume, ezazinamandla futhi ziyinkimbinkimbi ngasikhathi sinye.
- Dante (dante), ekwindla / ubusika 1996
Umbukiso wawunikelwe emaphethelweni esonto laseGuenota, ocwaningweni lwawo kwakuyinzalo ka-Alexander. Amamodeli aqhubekile podium ephelezelwa ngumculo wesitho, bona uqobo babenesikhumba esiphaphathekile kanye nezindebe zegazi. Isimo sezulu ehholo bekuwukukhumbuza okubunjiwe futhi sisondela ekusondeni.
Iqoqo liphawuleka ikakhulukazi ngoba izithombe ziphrintiwe izithombe zabantu ezenziwe ngumthwebuli wezithombe wezempi odumile uDon Maccalen.
- VOSS, Spring / Summer 2001
Umbukiso usuphenduke omunye wemisebenzi yokuvelela kakhulu hhayi kuphela ngomkhiqizo, kodwa futhi embonini yezemfashini iyonke. I-Mirror Club nezinye izindawo eziningi zenzelwe ukulingisa isibhedlela sezengqondo.
Kumamodeli avezwa izigqoko ezigula ngengqondo, ezazijeziswa, ezihlotshiswe nge-embroidery, izimpaphe namagobolondo aphakathi. Amanye amakhanda avalelwa, abanye babehlotshiswe ngezigqoko ngesimo sezinyoni ezigcwele.
Iqoqo liphinde lahlanganisa ibhulukwe lasehhovisi, iziqongo zepulasitiki, amajakethi asymmetrical. Kwakuwumdlalo ngokuhlukile - imigqa elula yagcwaliswa ngezithombe ze-hyperbolnised.
Kusukela i-McQueen kusukela ebuntwaneni ihlose, kwakungeyona ukuphela kweqoqo alisebenzisa ngalo izimpaphe - babehlala beboleka ubuciko futhi bakha ubuciko obumangalisayo.
- I-LA Dame Bloe ("Lady in Blue"), eSpring / Summer 2008
Ukuzibulala nentombi yokuzibulala kanye noMuse Isabella Bloou ngo-2007 kwaba ukushaya okukhulu kuka-Alexander. Ukubhekana nemizwa eqoqiwe, umklami wanikela umeluleki wakhe eqoqweni elilandelayo, ngokusekelwe kwisitayela sakhe.
Kwakuyizingubo zokugqoka zase-Asia, izingubo nezinyoni zezinyoni, izigqoko, ukulingisa imaskhi yokufaka uthango futhi, izigqoko ezidumile ezivela ezinhlaka ezidumile ezivela ezimvemvane ze-cluster ezisiza ukudala i-Philip Treccy.
- Abafelokazi baseCulloden ("Umfelokazi kaKawloden"), ekwindla / ubusika 2006
Enye iqoqo, elinikelwe emlandweni onesiyaluyalu lwe-scotland, ekuqaleni okwakukhona okhokho bakhe. Ngokusho kwezikhumbuzo zabangane, wayekhathazekile ngezwi naleli lizwe.
Eqoqweni le-McQueen elisetshenziswe ikakhulukazi izindwangu zemibhalo eminingi, iTartan, izimpaphe noboya. Izigqoko ze-Oloe zidlale izimpondo zenyamazane, izidleke, izimvemvane namaphiko ezinyoni. Umbukiso usuqediwe nge-hologram ekhuphukayo kate moss egqoke ingubo ehlukene ye-orgase.
- Uphondo lwanele ("uphondo lwe-isobacy"), ekwindla / ubusika 2009
Lo mbukiso namuhla uhlala enobuhlakani obuhle kakhulu futhi obukhumbuleka emlandweni womkhakha wezemfashini. Umklami waphinde waphenduka engqikithini yezinyoni, lesi sikhathi siduka.
Isihloko seqoqo sizinikele eminyakeni yobudala esiphila kuyo. Amamodeli eza e-podium ezithendeni eziphakeme kakhulu, egqoke umehluko wemibala.
Indima yezigqoko yadlalwa yizambulela namaseli ezinyoni. Konke lokhu kwangezelelwa ngezingubo ezenziwe ngezimpaphe.
Umbukiso waqedwa ngamamodeli amabili aphuma ezingutsheni ezimhlophe nezimnyama. Izingubo zazenziwe ngokugcwele ngezimpaphe - manje zingabhekwa ngokuphepha njengezinye zezinkulungwane zobungcweti ezaziwa kakhulu zomqambi.
Vele, babangela ukugxekwa okuningi, kepha bakwazile ukudlulisa emphakathini okuyinto esemqoka: imfashini ubuciko, hhayi ukuhweba.
- I-Atlantis's Atlantis (Atlantis Plato), i-Spring / Summer 2010
Iqoqo lokugcina lomklami, okhombisa ukundiza kwemicabango yalo engenamkhawulo. Umbiza ngokuthi "ukuphela kwezwe" okungafani no-Alexander McCain.
Umqambi waphefumulelwa yinkinga yokushisa komhlaba nokuphila ngemuva kwe-apocalypse. Umbukiso wawungumbukiso wemicabango ka-Alexander, lapho iplanethi eyayihlala khona abantu - izilwambuzane, ezivumelanise nokuphila emhlabeni nangaphansi kwamanzi.
Iqoqo lifaka izingubo zomoya, izingubo zokwakheka okungajwayelekile ngokuphrinta kwenyoka kanye nesithombe samaphiko okugcwala uvemvane. Emakhanda amamodeli kwakuyizitayela eziphakeme ezabizelwe ukuze ziqedele isithombe sezidalwa ezingama-alien.
Iqoqo liyabonakala ikakhulukazi, ngenxa yezicucu ezidumile ze-armadillo (ezivela esiNgisini. "Bremen konke). Lezi yizicathulo ezingejwayelekile ezinesiteji esiphakeme nesithende ezingama-30.
Bathola ukuthandwa okuthile ngenxa yeLady Gaga, ebonakala kubo esiqeshini sabo, base bethenga amamodeli amaningi avezwe.
Ukuqhelelana
okokugqoka
Ama-t-shirts
Emsebenzini wakhe, u-Alexander MQueen wahlakulela ukufa uqobo kanye nokuphila ngemuva kokufa. Isibonelo, lesi sihloko esithile sanikezelwa kwiqoqo le-1996 laseDante.
Akumangazi ukuthi enye yezinhlamvu ezihlotshaniswa nobuciko bomklami yi-Skull. Isibonelo, zingatholakala kuma-t-shirts, njengamathambo nezithombe zezimpaphe, futhi ezazidlala indima enkulu emsebenzini ka-Alexander.
Ama-T-shirts ajwayele ukwenziwa ngamathoni angathathi hlangothi - amhlophe, amnyama, aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, okumpunga. Zihle emasokeni ansuku zonke, futhi ziyehluka kuphela ngamaphrinta wokuvuselelwa.
Ijazi
USarah Burton uyaqhubeka nekhono esebenza ngekhono uhlobo lwe-Alexander McQueen. Ngokuvamile, amaqoqo awo asephenduke insikazi futhi imnene, ungasho nokuthi "ukugqokwa" okwengeziwe.
Ku-assortment ungathola ijazi kukho konke ukunambitheka - mahhala futhi kufakwe, isikhathi eside nangokuwo. Bajabulela izinhlobo eziningi zamafomu, ukwakheka nezitayela.
Ingubo yomshado
Mhlawumbe ingubo yomshado yemfashini kunazo zonke ye-Fashion House Alexander McQueen yenzelwe uKate Middleton ngonyaka ka-Sarah Burton. Le yingubo emnandi yomshado enhle abantu abazoyikhumbula isikhathi eside kakhulu.
Kuqediwe kusuka kuma-atlas, kwakuboshwe ngemuva kwezinkinobho ezingama-58, futhi isitimela saso sasingamamitha ayi-2.7 ubude. Ingxenye engenhla yengubo yathungwa ngentambo, ihlotshiswe ngemibala - izimpawu ze-Great Britain. Ezingubo, kwakukhona futhi nokuqeda intambo, kusonke, isembatho sasinezicelo ezingaphezu kuka-200. Kulinganiselwa ku- $ 50,000.
Izicathulo
Kwezinye izicathulo, ama-mcQueen adala amanyala, othile uyajabula, kepha cishe akekho omunye umuntu oshiya ukunganaki.
Isibonelo, ngo-2009, wethule iqoqo lezicucu ezithendeni ezingama-30 - ezikhumbuza izinselo. Amanye amamodeli anqabile ukuhlanganyela embukisweni, esebala izicathulo ezedlulele kakhulu.
Njengengxenye yamaqoqo ahlukahlukene, wayenezicathulo, afana nomhlathi wabafokazi, izimbadada endaweni yesikhulumi, ehlotshiswe ngama-butterflies, izicathulo zesitayela saseJapan.
Ngemuva kokuhamba kwakhe, izicathulo ze-brad zavinjwa futhi zavimba ama-laconic. USarah Burton uveza iqoqo elihlanganisa izicathulo ezijwayelekile kanye nezimbadada, kepha zilungele kakhulu amasokisi ansuku zonke.
U-Alexander McQueen nguPuma
Ngo-2005, i-geran yezemidlalo yezemidlalo yaseJalimane yaphetha inkontileka yesikhathi eside nomqambi. Indlu yakhe yaqala ukuthuthukisa amaqoqo e-capsule wezicathulo, ezazihlanganisa ama-sneaker kanye nama-sneaker anomklamo omuhle kakhulu.
Ukuze uthole izicathulo zokuthunga, kusetshenziswe kuphela izinto ezisezingeni eliphakeme ezisetshenziswayo zezemidlalo ezihlukile kakhulu - Lesi yisikhumba sase-Italy, isikhumba sezimvu, izimbuzi, ithole, isikhumba, esixutshwe ne-suede, pony pony. Kuyiqiniso, ukubhala ngesandla okuhlukile kwe-macquain kungalandelelwa kuma-sneaker design.
Ukubambisana kwalemikhiqizo emibili kwenza ukuthi kwenzeke ukuthi kubonakale ukwakheka okuhle, lula kanye nokusebenziseka, okuhlobene kakhulu - lapho ama-sneaker kanye nama-sneaker kanye nama-sneaker adlula ejimini, abe yizicathulo ezijwayelekile.
Izikhwama nezindunduma
Ngo-2006, uhlobo lwasayine isivumelwano sokwakhiwa kweqoqo lezikhwama namasudi noSamsonite. Amasudi enze i-ex yangempela. - Izimbambo zabantu zaxoshwa esivinjelweni semodeli eyodwa, kanti enye yalingisa igobolondo le-turtle.
Ama-clulchs wesakhiwo avele avele ngemuva kokushona komqambi. Ukuqhubeka namasiko adalwe ngumqambi, uSarah adale iqoqo lezindunduma ezihlotshiswe ngama-skulls u-Alexander ayelinaka.
Le clutch iyabonakala ngenxa ye-knob ngesimo seteyipu, okuhlala ngasikhathi sinye njengomhlobiso obabazekayo. Idizayini esetshenzisiwe izimbali nezimbali zemifino kanye nemifino ngokwayo yenziwa ngensimbi nesikhumba esiminyene.
Izibuko
I-Alexander McQueen Glass iyinhlobonhlobo nenkululeko, ehlanganiswe nokuvezwa okumfushane. Onke amamodeli akhiqizwa yi-Italian Safilo, ngakho-ke angaziqhayisa ngekhwalithi enhle kakhulu kanye nokucaciswa okuhle kobuchwepheshe.
Amafomu nokubukeka kwezibuko ahlukahlukene, ikakhulukazi amamodeli wothando we-fashionista anama-skulls abukeka ekhanyayo futhi ngokushesha.
Ukuhloba imihlobiso
Kusukela ngo-1996 kuya ku-2001, uphawu lwabambisana nobucwebecwebe uSe Shone Lin, owadala imihlobiso yemibukiso. Ngesikhathi somsebenzi wabo ominyene, umhlaba wabona izinto ezimangalisa njenge-corset-umgogodla, amacici - amathebhu, ama-cuff "ka-dickered", imihlobiso evela ethusi, ithusi nakwezinye ezinye izinsimbi ezingajwayelekile.
Kamuva, umklami wakhipha iqoqo lokuhlobisa ngezimfudu - uphawu lomkhiqizo. Kuhlanganisa isikhumba esikhulu namasongo esikhulu zensimbi kanye namasongo.
Amakhathi
Okwamanje, uhlobo lwe-Alexander Mcqueen lukhishwe amakha ayi-11, ekuqaleni kwawo - UMbuso wakhishwa ngo-2003. Kungokweqembu le-Aromas yaseMpumalanga ebabayo futhi iqukethe umculo weshidi, izinongo nemibala.
I-Perfume Vial iyindlela engajwayelekile, endaweni ethile kubukeka njengengxenye yenhliziyo.
Kukhishwe izinguqulo ezimbalwa zabesifazane ezilinganiselwe I-Kingdom Limited Edition ne-Kingdom Summer - Amakha angenakunxele angemuva anamaphathini wezimbali.
Ukubuyekezwa mayelana nalolu phunga kuyadicilela phansi, kepha, njengendalo yendalo yoMklami, ushiya ukunganaki okuncane. Ngokuyisisekelo, amantombazane athi le yimimoya engeyona amasokisi ansuku zonke, afaneleke kakhulu ukuphuma kwayo kusihlwa. Kuhle futhi ukuqaphela ukuthi ukumelana kwamakha kukhulu
Ngo-2005, iphunga lendlovukazi yami lakhululwa, elingelaqembu lezimbali zasempumalanga. Kubandakanya i-violet, ama-alimondi, ama-iris namanye amanothi wezimbali.
Ukwahlulela ngokubuyekezwa, amakha angabizwa ngokuthi yi-powder, ngokuhlanganiswa okukhanyayo kwezinongo. Ukumelana, njengasesimweni esedlule, kuphezulu kakhulu, ukunambitheka kubambe isikhathi eside esikhunjeni futhi kunikeze i-loop enhle.
Izinguqulo ezimbalwa zaleli phunga nazo zakhishwa: Indlovukazi yami uDeluxe Edition kanye ne-Queen Light Light Mist.
Ngo-2016, kwakhishwa amakha amabili amantombazane - uMcQueen Parfum neMcQueen eau de parfom. Zombili zingokweqembu le-East Floral Plahes Group.
Ngokuya kwabasebenzisi, owokuqala wembulwa nge-jasmine enamandla, kanti owesibili - uTubath. Womabili la makha amakha aphikelela kakhulu futhi ephelele.
Ngo-2017, kwakhishwa enye inguqulo yephulo - iMcQueen Eau Blanche, ebhekisa eqenjini lembali yezinkuni-musky. Kuhlanganisa uJasmine, uTubath noViolet.
Akunakwenzeka ukwenqaba iqiniso lokuthi ukunakekelwa kuka-Alexander McCain kusuka empilweni kuholele ekushintsheni kwamaqoqo omkhiqizo. Kodwa-ke, ukuba ngumfundi we-genaiya, uSara Burton waphatha ukusindisa umklamo oyingqayizivele kanye nokusikwa okuyingqayizivele, okuthi namuhla okwenza izingubo u-Alexander MQueen wamukelekile futhi ethandwa emhlabeni wonke.
