Muva nje, izwe lesimanje lemfashini liya ngokuya lifaka izimfanelo ezazithandwa eminyakeni yangemva kwempi. Imfashini yensikazi yalesosikhathi yayihlukaniswa ngesibindi, ngobuhle kanye nokubeletha, okuvame ukufuna amantombazane ezintweni zesimanje zekhabethe, efuna ukuvelela futhi kugcizelele ubuntu babo. Kuma-20s, imfashini yaphoqeleka ukuba isuka ngaphansi kwesikhashana nje sothando ngokwesimanjemanje, ngenxa yalokho abaklami balesosikhathi bavele khona isikhala esengeziwe sokwakha.
Ubuhlakani
Ama-20s angemva kwempi abonakaliswa ngokukhula okuphezulu kwezimboni nakwezomnotho. Ngalesi sikhathi, amantombazane aqala ukukwazisa ubuchwepheshe babesilisa ababefuna ezinye izisulu kubo. Abesifazane abaningi kwadingeka balahle ama-corsets noma iziketi ezingathandeki zobude bakaMaxi, ngenxa yalokho abaklami balesosikhathi benziwa umsebenzi onzima - ukuza nama-silhouette asazoqhubeka nokugqoka ubufazi babanikazi babo, kodwa ngokufanayo isikhathi babekhululekile ngangokunokwenzeka.
E-United States, ngasikhathi sinye, abesifazane bathola umthetho wokuvota, ngenxa yokuthi amantombazane amaningi aqala ukulwela ukuba sempheni namadoda, kodwa futhi azongena emphakathini.
Imicimbi ethule yezwe, ingashintsha kalula emaphathini anomsindo ngemigoqo nasezindaweni ezimbalwa, kanye nemidanso emnandi kuze kuse. Ntambama, abesifazane bazinikela kulowo msebenzi onomthwalo wemfanelo, futhi ebusuku bahamba bayofuna ezamehlela.
Ukubhema, kanye nokuhlukunyezwa kotshwala, okwakuthonya kakhulu ukuqonda kwabo, kodwa futhi nakwisibalo. Ngenxa yemikhuba elimazayo nendlela yokuphila esebenzayo, intombazane-umfana yaba yinto entsha. Isibalo se-Slim sihlangana ngokucophelela izinwele ezimfushane, amahlombe avulekile nesiketi esifushane, ukuzethemba ngamabomu, kanye nesifiso sokuvuma umphakathi umdubuli eduze kwakhe.
Kodwa-ke, abaklami bebengenze lula lo msebenzi. Ngaleso sikhathi, kwagcizelela kahle isibalo sabesifazane abanjalo. Izingubo ze-Crow zaba lula, kepha zisebenza kakhudlwana futhi zintofontofo. Futhi kubaqambi, isihloko esikhulu sokunakwa kwekhabethe labesifazane kwakungukuhlobisa.
Isitayela 1920-1929: IMelika ne-USSR
1920-1924-E.
EMelika, ama-couture anethalente futhi adumile, anjengeJeanne Packen, uJacques Patus noJacques Dossa bakha amantombazane amasha amantombazane ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20. Isici sakhe esiyinhloko nesikhanyayo sasiyinkululeko, egcizelelwa ama-silhouette anamathiselwe ezinto zokugqoka ezinama-spectacular yokuhlobisa izinto namamodeli anesitayela esimnandi kakhulu nejazi elinohlotshiswe oluphansi.
Izingubo zakusihlwa zaseCurra kumele zikhulise nakanjani le ncwadi e-Era ye-Era of Revival of Jazz, Shimmy and Forkey, yayikhululekile ukudlulela phansi komdanso. Ukudansa ngaleso sikhathi kwaba uthando lwangempela kwabesifazane abaningi. Kungakho izici ezahlukahlukene zokuhlobisa zingena ngemfashini, ngokwesibonelo, "i-visulki", eyayikukhangisa ngentshiseko le ntombazane ngesikhathi somdanso futhi yamnika ubuhle.
Izigqoko ezingaphezulu zingene emfashini, ezazihlotshiswe ngamaparele abaqambi, izimpaphe noma ama-sequins. Isigqoko sabesifazane esidumile kakhulu sesiphenduke isigqoko sokungqubuzana. Ugcizelele ukwakheka kwekhanda lensikazi futhi wancintisana kancane emehlweni ukuyinika uhlobo olukhethekile lwemfihlakalo.
E-USSR, ngasikhathi sinye, imfashini yowesifazane yasungulwa ngenkuthalo izidingo zezwe lesikhathi sempi yangemva kwempi futhi yagcizelela ukuba lula nokusebenziseka okuphezulu. Ngokufaka esikhundleni sezingubo zokukhanya kwabesifazane, iziketi eziqondile zamasosha ama-midi midi amade kanye nama-clutch tackets eza.
Izingubo ezivamile zithungathwe e-canvas futhi zazinokubukeka okulula. Ngokuya, emigwaqweni, kungenzeka ukuthi kuhlangane nowesifazane, egqoke ikhilomitha enkulu lesikhumba, amabhulukwe aqondile, adiniwe emabhuthini. Isitayela sawomafazi esinjalo saba uphawu lwabantu abasebenza engcupheni yabo ezabekwa ezasezandleni ngemuva kokubuyiselwa kwezwe ngemuva kokubhujiswa okude kwempi.
1925-1929 -
Imfashini yabesifazane yaseMelika ngalesi sikhathi yaba nesibindi ngokwengeziwe. Abaklami bemfashini enjalo, abasungula amakhono, njengoCoco Chanel noMadeleine Vionne baphanga ngokweqile ikhabethe labesifazane, baboleka okuthile kusuka ekhabethe lesilisa futhi babheke izinto ezindala ngaphansi kwe-angle entsha. Amabhulukwe aqondile ngokuhlanganiswa nezihloko ezikhanyayo zaba yinto eyintandokazi ehambisana nezihloko ezikhanyayo, imichilo yazo iboshwe entanyeni.
Futhi ngalesi sikhathi, izimonyo ziba "umngani omkhulu" wawo wonke umuntu wesifazane. Ukusetshenziswa kwayo okusebenzayo ngokuhlanganiswa nezingubo ezinhle zenziwa ngokweqile ngokweqile, kepha ngasikhathi sinye ama-coquettle anobuntu obumangalisayo. Kusetshenziswe kahle imicibisholo emide, i-Blush, izithunzi ezimnyama, kanye ne-lipstick ebomvu kanye nomthunzi ofanayo wePolishi lezipikili eligcizelele futhi waqinisa ubuhle bemvelo bamantombazane amancane.
Ngaleso sikhathi esifanayo, ukuphakama kweziketi kungafanelekile, ukunqoba ngempumelelo umugqa wedolo, onikeze umfutho ekuthuthukiseni lesi sitayela se-gangster - izintombi zezintombi.
Kwakuyisihloko esinjengokuthi abesifazane ababulalayo bathola, abathandekayo bakabani baka-banditry kanye nokuphanga. Kubo, kwakukhona isitayela esibukekayo esiyimfihlo, esigcizelele isimo esikhethekile senkosikazi yezigebengu - ingxubevange yengozi nobulili.
Izingubo zesitayela se-gangster zabesifazane zivame ukufaka ingubo eyenziwe ngosilika noma i-velvet, uFur Lightweight Cape, amasheya aphezulu futhi, amagugu agcizelele ubuhle bomnikazi wabo.
Isitayela sabesifazane e-USSR ngalesi sikhathi sakhululwa futhi sabesifazane. Kusungulwe ukukhiqizwa kwamabhizinisi okuthuthwayo, kukhishwe omagazini bezemfashini bokuqala baseSoviet, okwakugqokwa yi-komsomol yabesifazane okuhle kakhulu. Izinwele zibunjiwe ngaphezulu kwamahlombe, ikakhulukazi, uKara. Izingubo zaqala ukuba nokubukeka kwe-baggy futhi zathunga ubude obungaphezulu kwamadolo, futhi ukusikwa kwe-Europeanness kwakunokhandi ongaphansi komhlaba. Kusuka ezicathulweni, kwakhethwa ngezicucu ezivaliwe egazini elizinzile elizinzile.
Kwabesifazane bebhizinisi nabo baqale ngenkuthalo ukukhiqiza izingubo ezinhle. Njengenguqulo yakusihlwa, izingubo ze-satin ngentambo ejulile, egcizelela kakhulu amafomu abesifazane. Ngokusetshenziswa kwemfashini yowesifazane, izigqoko ezithandwayo ezinjalo, njengensimbi - insimbi yamanje, ama-berets aphulwe ngenkuthalo.
Isitayela 20 ngemfashini yesimanje
Abaqambi basheshe bafuna ugqozi ngezinto ze-retro zekhulu leminyaka elidlule. Izindlu eziningi ezaziwa kahle zaziwa ngo-2007-2008 zazanywa ukubuyela ekusebenziseni izingubo ezibukekayo zango-1920s. Kodwa-ke, ngaleso sikhathi, amamodeli anjalo akopishe ngokwedlulele isitayela sentokazi ebulalayo anesibindi kakhulu.
Kulonyaka, abaklami abaningi bemfashini nabaqambi baphinde bakhombisa kithi ama-echoes esitayela sonyaka wama-20 emaqoqweni abo amasha. Ngokuyisisekelo, kungabonakala kuma-silhouette alula wezingubo zokugqoka ezihlanganiswe kusuka ku-velvet emangalisayo, kanye nakwamanye amamodeli afanele anohlobo lwehembe eliphakeme futhi livame ukubonakala ngegama elithi "isitayela selineni".
Izithombe ezimangazayo
Eminyakeni yamuva, amantombazane anamuhla asenze ngokwengeziwe esebenzisa izinto ezithombeni zawo zama-20s ekhulu lama-20. Ngenxa ye-Elula, kepha ngasikhathi sinye ukuqhekeka okuhle nezindlela ezinhle zokuyihlobisa, ungathola isithombe esimnandi esizosebenza futhi esikhathini sethu.
- Ngakho-ke, ukuya ephathini, kufanelekile ukubana ngengubo emnyama ye-velvet, ehlotshiswe ngamaphethini asebenzisa i-guipure nama-rhinestones, kanye nenkohliso eyengeziwe kuyo. Imichilo emincane izogcizelela amahlombe abuthakathaka womnikazi wabo, futhi umgexo ojulile uzokwenza ukwakheka kwakhe kube nzima. Isiketi esilula ngeke sidubule ukunyakaza ngesikhathi semidanso esebenzayo. Njengomhlobiso oyinhloko, ungasebenzisa i-hoop yokugqoka ekhanda lakho, owenziwe ngezinto ze-lace ngaphansi kombala wengubo futhi uhlotshiswe ngembali yokufakelwa nezimpaphe. I-Makeup ekhanyayo izokwenza ukuthi amantombazane abonise ngokwengeziwe, futhi i-clutch encane izokwazi ukuqeda lesi sithombe esihle.
- I-Retro kanye ne-Vintage kuyathandwa ngengqikithi yemishado yanamuhla. Imfashini engama-20s ivame ukusetshenziswa ngabashadikazi ngokubanika ingubo yomshado yobuhle nobufazi. Izinto ezihambelana kakhulu nazo ziyi-silk ne-atlas yamathunzi akhanyayo, ahlotshiswe ngenhlanganisela nge-lace kanye namaparele. Ubude obukhulu buvame ukusetshenziswa, futhi i-silhouette igcizelelwa okhalweni oluphansi. Ukugqoka okunjalo kungangezwakala ngamagilavu amade amangalisayo azoba umhlobiso oyinhloko wezibambo zentombazane ezinobungcweti, kanye nobuhlalu obuhlukahlukene beparele kanye nebhandeji ekhanda.
Vele, imfashini yekhulu lama-20 yagcwaliswa ngezinto ezikhanyayo, eziningi zazo ezisetshenziswa ngabaklami abadumile kuze kube manje ukuze banikeze imikhiqizo yabo ukubukeka okuhle kakhulu nokunamathela.