Wool felting without use of liquids (felting) requires often quite complex tools in self-making. For example, you need a special needle, which differs from those we sew. Hanging needles manually have a special structure. The helicalness of the needle to felt the wool is directed inside, to the tip: when piercing the woolen material, the hairs are tightened by the edge inside.
With the reverse movement, the woolen fabric is knocked down and becomes more dense. So initially loose wool turns into a tight felt.
Standard set
The needles differ from each other only the location of the jar relative to each other. This is the main criterion for their classification by varieties. They are sold in any sewing store.
- The simplest needle is triangled. On each of the faces there are teeth, the direction of which makes it well to keep the fur in the implementation of the puncture.
- Star needle is a tetrahedral. All these faces are equipped with teeth. It allows you to more accelerate to knock off the wool tightly. Not shot down by the usual needle with three faces properly wool better falls precisely with the help of star needle.
- Spun asterisk - It is even more comfortable in the use of a needle. Its jar are placed in spiral order, and not at different levels as on a simple star-like needle.
- The needle with three twisted edges does not leave the tracks in the form of holes. It is perfect for the final finishes of soft toys or small things.
- The coronary needle provides for the location of the Zzabrin at the very end of the working part, while the number of porcelies supplied is significantly less. So, with its help, puppet strands can be laid much easier than when applying other similar tools. With it, it is easier to fasten the details of any small toy. This needle is reverse primarily due to the reversing sequence of the Zzabin.
Important! The new triangular needle of different appointments is suitable for beginners, as well as a reverse needle.
Description of sizes
But alone, the classification of needles for filling is not limited. The digital marking of the needle relies on their actual thickness. The needle thickness range varies with increments of 0.5-1 mm. Eagle marking is similar to labeling for knitting spokes. Its foreign values are as follows:
- Size 40-43. - an ultra-thin needle, which allows you to finely designate small areas and contours at the end of the felting;
- Size 36-38. - averaged size needle, most often used for dumping;
- Size 19-34. - The thickest needles used for the main work.
In Russia, the labeling looks like this:
- "Star" on 38 is considered large, 39 - middle, 40 - shallow;
- Coronary at 38 - already thin;
- Twisted needle (36-40) marked according to the real thickness.
Most masters engaged in and felt wool use not a domestic number system.
"Star"
The needles "Stars" are the following dimensions:
- 38 - Thick needle;
- 39 - average;
- 40 - thin.
A twisted "asterisk" lies in the numbering range from 36 to 40. Coronary - from 38 to 43, while the jar is located closer to the end of the needle. Such a needle is more often used for near-surface work. "Star" and twisted needles, in contrast to simple triangular, are used to increase productivity. They are suitable for experienced masters who have stuffed their hands on simple needle - for speed (star and twisted needles relate to high-speed) payable significant effort when pressed in the process of wool rolls.
A twisted needle contains an axis in the form of a spiral, allowing you to place more hooks on it - more woolly is captured, the performance productivity increases. "Star" leaves smaller holes in the material, but captures more hairs - and because it is considered the highest speed due to deeper furrows from the sides. They differ in smoothness, without breaking fibers.
Three-edged and tetrahedral "Stars" apply most often - mostly 38 and 40s, the latter work well with the applicator. Ordinary trico-eyed needles are not so fast and effectively waving wool like "asterisks".
Anyway, the needles with star-like edges are a popular tool in surface felting, novice masters work with them.
Inverse
In the main work "Filtment" does not participate, but it is still needed for easy dissolon. For example, on toys in the form of animals, fruits and colors, it forms something like a light fluff. "Return" flies wool when inverse movements, because she got its name. It greatly helps to fit wool in hard-to-reach places where the original geometry is used, make a fur with particularly noticeable and textured.
The reverse needle has only two sizes - 32 and 40. It has no average size.
"Crown"
The coronary needle is also suitable for manual fooling and is applied in specific cases, for example, for the molding of artificial hair for dolls and other toys made from textiles. At the very end there are 3 grooves, carrying out a neat roll of long threads, not blocking them away into the material. The "corona" needle is used in specific places. In the case of the "crown" with another needle on the same tip, you will get a dent. That is why there is just such a needle for the cutting straw.
How to choose?
Ibjects for felting are often broken from long and bulk work. The effort that is sometimes applied to the wool, is rather big - it can make a needle to such an extent that steel will break. Russian products are presented, for example, the company "Gamma", but they are inferior in fragility and flexibility are all the same foreign from CLOVER.
Best of all, Germany and Japan were distinguished in the quality of the manufacturer's needles. It is German and Japanese "Valyalki" are recommended for long-term and systematic work.
The needle for felting should have a comfortable handle - preferably wooden. When the needle breakdown, there is no need to buy a new one with a handle - sets of spare needles very easy to get.
Set of a valley
For clear and high-quality work, the following inventory is required:
- needles;
- A rug for work (in the simplest case - thick foam);
- Pupil film (in such a frequently packaged small goods from China);
- fluff whipping;
- fixing equipment for needles (supports operation with multiple needles);
- Substrate for raw felting (slurry).
Important! Prepare wool intended for felting.
Holders
Holders (applicators) are supplied with replaceable or inseparable bases. Replaceable allow you to work with several needles, monolithic - only with one, originally fortified in the applicator itself. But adapters are also supplied to the monolithic holders, allowing to put filling on the stream - you can simultaneously use up to 5 needles. Often applicators are made of wood or plastic.
Mostly it is a tree or plastic. Applicators are best suited for short needles - long will look out of them, which will complicate the work process.
How to flash wool?
The needle is located strictly perpendicular to the wool treated - at this angle it enters and comes out of it. Drying to any of the parties prematurely disseminate the needle and lead to its emergency breakdown. "Fatigue" of metals: the product from millions of bends and extensions simply breaks.
Start work with the thick needle, and not the opposite. Not failed wool requires preliminary sealing, facilitating the work of thinner needles. This means that a thick needle is much longer in unprepared wool, it is more subtle easily to break, without whipping the material before. But in the shattered wool, the thick needle will not be included - here, after giving the products of the main form, and we need medium and subtle tall.
In no case, do not scroll through the needle inside - the wool wound tightly on the needle, without pulling them out of a lump "with the root", it is almost impossible to release the tool.
Wizards working with interior toys and souvenirs use basic needles not larger than 36 sizes. When the work is almost finished and the wool must be smoothed, it takes a thin tool, up to 43rd. For exclusively small parts and souvenirs, thinner needles are also used - no largest 40th. Try and look for a scatter of needles, convenient to you. The above recommendations will help quality wool, giving the product a finished and tidy look.
What can be replaced?
No, the use of self-made needles for felting is capable only to harm - wool will not be swelled, but washed. It is impossible to make a felt needle - their faces and hooks should be thin, which is achievable only in factory conditions. Application, for example, toothpicks with sharpening, similar to the feltic needles, not justified: the tree is broken, the hooks will be expelled will be expelled, and such a homemade in the end looks like a simple "hitch", which does not give effect.
Use present needles for felting.
About how to choose and use needles for fooling, see the next video.