Wood threaded chisels: semicircular, curly and other types, set of electrostas and incisors, how to get a tool correctly

Master Clever is always a brutal man who works in the workshop. And it is surrounded by its racks and drawers with numerous tools. Today, gender equality in wood carving, although not 100%, but women also actively occupy this niche, as the demand for the wooden decor is great. So, newbies are becoming more, and their questions should not be unanswered. The most basic concerns the choice of tools, the initial set of the chisels.

Peculiarities

The chisel is a multifunctional tool. In the dexterous hands, the chisel cutter can a lot: choose an extra volume of wood, taking into the most difficult zones. It can align the edges of the furniture. The chisel can be achieved by the roundabout of any radius and, finally, make an art composition from faceless wood.

By the way, it can not only work with a tree. It copes well with a soft metal, successfully interacts with plastic and skin.

And if the master decides to reflash, the recruitment tool can still come in handy.

According to the functionality of the chisels can replace the chisel. But there are some difference in them: the chisel has a smaller-cleaned volume, since the cutting edge of this tool is already what the bit. The parameters of the corner of the cutting edge are also different. The chisels are divided into carpentry, artistic and machine. The chisels for wood thread are a variety of cutters, which differ from each other by the form of the working area. For example, a direct working part will allow you to obtain smooth edges on the outlet around the entire perimeter of the wooden billet, and the slanting part helps to choose narrow grooves and get angular edges.

Semicircular and round working areas form radius roundings and spherical fragments. These chisels, by the way, are often called stiffeles. But the corner working part helps to arrange the deaf openings of the non-chilled cross section. Finally, the curved work area copes with undercutting and spherical fragments. Each master picks up the chisels and knives for themselves. And at least there is practically basic tools for everyone, you need the hand to feel the tool. And this is always an individual choice.

Two sheeps for the formation of the same detail will need different chisels (according to the design, recess), and this is normal.

Views

As noted above, the decisive role in the chisel and its functionality plays the form of the blade itself. We give the types of popular chisels.

• Straight knife-chisel. Such an adaptation is indispensable for the processing of joinery blanks and cutting of simple recesses.

• Corner chisel. Reminds English Literature V, at different angles in the chisel there are two closed blades planes. It is logical to assume that such a variety is created to obtain V-shaped recesses. The sharper the angle of the cutter, the deeper it will turn out.

• Oblique. The blade of this tool is bevelined by 45 degrees. Longitudinal grooves cut out this professional chisel. It is suitable for primary changes in the workpiece.

• Semicircular. It will prepare a product for processing. It is capable of cut all sorts of ornaments, to do serfs. It happens round, medium and outdoor. A semicircular tool is inhibited each cutter.

• Cupcaraza. Externally reminds the predecessor. But the working surface of the Cupcarazis is equipped with a rounding and a rod and the end of the blade. Thanks to this form, you can count on the smooth movement of the wood tool. Copperazy have subspecies. For example, the cutting part of the same berthedral is rounded, the other is straight, the third is coal.

• Stiheli. Move from the mushroom handle and oblique cutter. Serve, as a rule, to form the grooves. The more pressing the cutter on the tool, the brighter and the thread will be deeper.

• Caesarica. In a sense, this is also a semicircular chisel, but its worksheet is very narrow, only 3 mm wide. Caesarics make narrow grooves and work out the smallest ornamental fragments.

• Klepik. Such a cute word is called a mini-chisel with an ideally sharpened narrow blade resembling a sharp piece of leaf. Take advantage of Klepika in situations where simple chisels are powerless. Thin work, accurate drawing - for this, the little chisel is purchased.

• Marigold. Another mini-tool, cutting the finest fragments, but more rounded.

• Reverse chisel. It is distinguished by convex outer withdrawal to create a protruding pattern on the main plane canvas.

And the chisels are made forged, cutting, stamped. Forged a noticeable thick blade, because they can be solid wood. Cutting cutters are suitable for interaction with medium and soft wood species. Stamped chisels act thanks to a stubborn washer.

Unsense homemade chisels are not nonsense.

Nevertheless, in the finished prefabricated samples, the tools are already lying in a certain configuration, and not all of the presented is needed by a flattery, not everything is provided in the set. Therefore, homemade sties appear often, and in quality they may not yield to factory goods.

At the modern carver, the choice is large - from curly chisels to electric (and there are such). But the base of the craft begins with the easiest, recognizable, well-proven chisels from the finished set. I finish working with them, you can already master any such, even the most complex carved tool.

How to construct the chisel yourself - what to take for the blade:

• milling mill - it is quite rigid and reacts well to sharpening;
• Food - for a carpentry chisel is a decent source;
• Drills (for metal) - a decent base for narrow little chisels;
• profiled toolkit - suitable for an angular cutter;
• Nadfili - Perform a thin tool.

Home is better than a small-sized tool. The handle is more often made from the bar, as the tree is more familiar and environmentally friendly plastics.

How to choose?

I want the material to be durable, and the cost of the set did not go beyond the budget. You have to go on some compromises. Some prefer to order a ready-made set from the Asian site, others choose the chisels one, for a long time and preferably by drawing up their own collection.

We will give advice for beginners by choosing the chisels.

1. A truly high-quality blade is made from instrumental steel type 13x or 8khf. In such a metal, the carbon content is high, it is necessarily present chrome, sometimes tungsten. The type of steel must certainly pay attention when purchasing, otherwise you can overpay for not the highest quality.
2. The chisel hardness indicators should not be lower than HRC 59.60. If they are smaller, it means you can buy a cheap chisel (perhaps just fake) from construction steel 45X. What it is bad - the fact that the tool will have to be sharpening very often.
3. If there is no time to walk and choose tools with incomplete, you can buy and set. From the most chassis worth name Narex, Sandwik, as well as Bahco. Among the products for carvers there are a lot of good Japanese brands, and from Russian should be closed to "Enek".
4. As for optimal length, it will be 10-15 cm. If the cutter is greater, it will endure a smaller load. The chisel's handle can be wooden and plastic. On the one hand, the tree is more familiar, its naturalness is tactile more pleasant, on the other hand - good plastic can be more durable and stroasted. Therefore, the question of the choice of handle material does not have an objective assessment.
5. If the product is not specified on the product labeling, most likely it is a fake. And no matter how attractive prices for fakes, they will not justify even those small means that they are spent on them. Good chisels will serve for years.
6. The quality of steel stiars is easy to test on a sharpening stone. When steel is properly hardened, burrs will be formed when draging, they are easily cleaned. But if there is no such bursavina, it means that the material is perhalen and the cutter is tritely dangerous. If the burrs are formed, but it is impossible to remove them, it means that the steel is very soft. She just will not stand sharpening. A pointed edge of such a chisel will be deformed even with mini-effort.

It should be understood that any chisels on the chamfer appear borrowers and irregularities.

They can be adjusted on the grinding wheel. The wizard holds a deformed chamfer near the circle, removing irregularities, rust and chips. Three-level grinding stone can ask a chisel any sharpness.

How to sharpen?

Thanks to the competent sharpening, the cutter acquires accurate slice and ease of control. But not in one sharpness of the blade case, the angles of sharpening also have the meaning. They are dependent on the type of tool and the actions that will be produced.

If the cutting part is sharpened correctly, and the angle of the chamfer is descended, then the cutter pulls into the chips will be easier to withstand its thickness. And the attached efforts also correlate with sharpening quality.

It is possible to sharpen the cutter with manual devices, and driven. Masters are mainly used with grinding stones and bars wrapped by sandpaper, leafy abrasives. The polishing bases from felt and fabric are suitable for this mission. Of course, sharpened machines are used (they are vertical and horizontal).

Here are some major points of the tool sharpening.

1. The magnitude of the sharpening angle is a gap 25 +/- 5 degrees. Such parameters forms GOST 1184-80. Usually the angle under which you need to sharpen the tool, conjugate with the thickness of the chisel. In thick blades more often oblique SCOS. If the chisel is only alone, it is recommended to sharpen it under the operating angle of 25 degrees.
2. In the basic configuration for sharpening there are 3 items - abrasive for starting processing, grinding materials for finishing, and a sharpening mandrel, fixing angle.
3. If the device is manual, the angle in it can be set by clins, if the factory - there is an angular adjustment. The device is simple: the carriages move the abrasive over the surface and the inclined area, and the clamp is exhibited in advance at the desired angle.
4. The chamfer grows and manually, and the power tool. But make the cutting edge to make real only manually.
5. Grinded water stones are perfectly coping with the sharpening of the blades of the chisel. First, these stones are soaked in water, it goes to the surface during sharpening and stirred with dust abrasive. As forms a viscous gel consistency.
6. Running and grinding - still different operations. The finishing sets the geometrically accurate chamfer plane, grinding provides the version of its roughness.

The algorithm sharpening the stiars is personally like this: At first, the abrasive bar is polished by the chamfer (visible defects should not appear), then the cutting edge line is checked (perpendicular to the tool canvas). Then the bar turns into a fine-grained grinding: the chamfer is griming to a shiny surface and maximum sharpness. After processing, the chisel is wiped dry, because the grinding papers can be moistened with water. And the ability to choose that the most necessary, and the perfect sharpening come with experience.

Therefore, novice should not be afraid: the work is fascinating and creative, and the tools become literally a "continuation of the hand" of the Master.

The following video presents an overview of the tree chisels.